John Bathurst introduced our speaker John Macfarlane, author & historian. John & John have known each other for 50+ years, since university days. Very happy to have reconnected. John Macfarlane has had quite a career with Parks Canada, following up in about 1988 at the maritime museum as Director. John is now retired to Qualicum Beach on the Vancouver Island.
John is author of at least 14 books about maritime and naval history.
CLICK HERE to read a brief synopsis of
Around the World in a Dugout Canoe on Nauticopedia. This site is a great resource for Pacific maritime and naval history.
The intent of Around the World in a Dugout Canoe is to set the record straight about the journey. There were two previously written books about the journey. Captain John Voss’ version, The Venturesome Voyages of Captain Voss, and a second by Luxton’s daughter based on notes. The intent of Around the World in a Dugout Canoe is to set the record straight about the journey. To find the real story, resources from around the world were searched. Voss’ book glaringly omits many facts. This version is much richer and deeper than either of the two original versions.
It was Norman Luxton who came up with the idea of a journey. None of what ensued would have happened if not for him and his friendship with John Voss.
John Voss was born in Denmark, in an area that is now in Germany. He somehow became qualified as a mariner and captained ships. He eventually settled in Crofton BC. It was later revealed that he was on the run from US authorities. He was a hotelier, barman, and butcher, known to drug young men who would find themselves on ships as unwilling sailors.
Voss was a leader of an organized crime ring that trafficked drugs to the States. Opium was openly processed in Victoria. He eventually grew tired of the hotel business and wanted a life on the sea.
Luxton proposed the trip of navigating around the world in a small vessel. Voss, with his expertise, would be able to do so safely. Luxton thought he could get a sealing vessel. Voss thought it too ordinary, and counter proposed using a dugout canoe. They agreed and set out to find one that would suit their purposes.
Dugout canoes were important in the first nations coastal communities. Took two years to carve out a canoe of this size – Tillicum is 38’. There is still no verification as to where Tillicum was found, rather the authors found 6 different versions of her origin. She most likely originated in Clayoquot Sound. She was purchased then towed to Galiano for conversion to a sailing ship. No original sketches were found showing design.
The few early images that survived showed how it was designed. The cabin was tiny – room for one at a time. The other on board would manage the boat from the cockpit. The cabin was dark, dingy and damp. The living conditions must have been awful. Under full sales she could make 5-7 knots/hour.
At the outset of the trip, winds and currents beat them back to Sooke. It was in fact they retreated to Sooke, due to Voss’ being unable to land in the U.S., where they took the opportunity to paint the inside of the cabin.
With no radio on board there was no way to contact the outside world. Only when they encountered another ship could messages be sent on their progress. The 1st leg, 58 days, was certainly not the romantic notion of sailing. Routine consistent of working, eating and sleeping. Overcoming the stresses was a matter of survival. While on board they developed an intense dislike for each other.
The two men were out of touch with the outside world for long stretches of time. By the time they reached Sidney, they were able to pick up mail.
After 58 days they finally made a landfall in the south seas. Luxton’s forays ashore were against Voss’ recommendations. Voss had a distrust and fear of other peoples and locations. Slowly this attitude changed as he experienced the hospitality of friendliness of locals along the journey. The people they met enroute were very colourful in their own right. Voss increasingly enjoyed the journey, Luxton experienced the converse.
Luxton wanted to leave Voss in Fiji and go to Australia. Walter Begent volunteered to take his place on the boat. Shortly after their departure, in a storm, Walter fell overboard and drowned. A distraught Voss spent some time looking for Walter unsuccessfully. The compass was lost with Walter. He turned westward knowing he would eventually hit land. Voss was accused by Luxton as a murderer, killing Begent. Read the book for the evidence found to decide for yourself.
He had at least 12 mates during the voyage. Seemed to choose based on companionability versus actual sailing abilities. Probably wise given the extreme living conditions.
Voss became a showman in Sidney showing and talking about the vessel. He wasn’t concerned about the length of time these demonstrations added to the journey. Sometimes the craft was taken out of the water, and brought to locations for display. Despite the public acknowledgements and demonstrations, profit seemed to allude Voss. Voss became a media sensation. During research for the book, thousands of references to Voss were found from around the world.
They finally landed in Margate, UK where the journey ended. By this time Voss’ reputation preceded him and many people showed up to see his landing. Voss was nominated as a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society by Ernest Shackleton into the Royal Geographical Society not once but twice, however Voss didn’t pay the required fee either time.
Voss eventually returned to Victoria, then subsequently moved to Japan. The location and circumstances of his death is still unsure.
Since the end of the voyage, the Tillicum passed through many owners in England. Eventually, she was abandoned on the edge of the River Seine. It wasn’t until the 1930’s that she found her way home on the deck of a freighter.
The Tillicum is no longer accessible for public viewing. She is currently stored securely with the hope that she will, once again, be available for all to see.
There are a lot of big details not able to be covered in this presentation. If the story interests you, please locate and read the book. It’s easy to find, available via a number of vendors. Here is one:
