Last week's talk - John Wotherspoon on Iran
Posted by John Wotherspoon
on Aug 03, 2015
My visit to Iran
Iran has a well educated population of ~85m and is well developed - if not for its political isolation after the 1979 Revolution when the Shah was deposed and theocracy took control, it would be considered on a par with most western countries. Despite economic sanctions its infrastructure is similar to ours and for those of you who’ve enjoyed visiting Turkey, Iran is better developed.
The capital Tehran is on the foot of a mountainside and home to 16m people (Sydney ~ 4.5m). Like Australia, Iran is very dry with similar weather to ours but unlike Australia it has many snow-capped mountains that provide ample water. So Iran has plentiful gardens and parks that due to its long Persian history are well planned and maintained. The people are friendly and I felt safe and welcome at all times. If you don’t act against the regime, I imagine this safe feeling applies - otherwise life would not be enjoyable. In public places, adults and children often sought opportunities to approach, chat and be photographed.
Iran is not arabic having clung doggedly to its mostly Persian culture. It became Shi'ah muslim when overrun by the Arabs in 637 AD, so they speak Arabic and use Arabic script but when that Arabian dominance faded in 10th C, they revived their Persian (Farsi) language but by then had lost the Farsi (cuneiform) script. Popular poet Ferdowsi was instrumental in reprising Farsi. Poets are close to the heart of Iranians - Hafez’ tomb was a moving experience with men in tears reciting poems that were important to them. If you recall the Rubáiyát of Omar Khayyám translations from the 20s you’ll appreciate the role of their poetry.
Let’s discuss Iran’s governing structure, dress code and what life is like for women. Iran’s govt control is vested in two Councils - the Assembly of Experts, about 80 (male) Ayatollah candidates across wide skills elected by public vote to supervise government and appoint/dismiss the Supreme Leader and President (both are currently moderates, unlike their predecessors). Parliament and its Cabinet are elected by the people. However, an unelected Guardian Council of 16 Ayatollahs vets Parliamentary candidates, Expert candidates and all legislation to ensure it complies with Sharia law. The Guardian Council is appointed by the Supreme leader, the Judiciary and Parliament. An Ayatollah is akin to a Cardinal and immams or mullahs are like priests, who can become ayatollahs if they exhibit sufficient wisdom and learning.
Like Australia only about 15% of Iranians worship regularly but within this there is a devout core who can be relied upon to rally in the streets when summoned. The theocracy is firmly in control but while 90% of Iranians were happy to overthrow the Shah in 1979 due to his excesses, only 10% think it was a good idea in hindsight. It seems Ahmadinejad’s regime was breathtakingly corrupt but the current leaders now seem moderate, skilled and less self-serving.

The following recounts what I was told about men & women in Iran. Boys and girls mix freely till age 7 when they go to different primary schools - a separation retained until University by which time they’re deemed to have a fully functioning brain that can hold primal urges in check. Note that 60% of university students are women. Sharia law considers girls have reached maturity by age 9 - perhaps true in Mohammad’s time. In Iran it is unlawful to marry before age 16 but in remote country areas sometimes girls are married after age 9 if the respective fathers agree. A dowry is paid by the husband and the father must usually agree to a marriage.
Iranian men do 2 years of Military service but not women. Women can work in most occupations including lawyers and receive equal pay but can’t become Judges (even in the family court). Daughters inherit half that of sons since they don’t have to find a job. Parents and/or prospective spouses negotiate their binding marriage contract. In that agreed contract, the wife must negotiate with her intended that he’ll allow her to study, get a job, start a business or anything that is not the subservient norm. Should a divorce be needed, the cumulative marital assets are divided 50/50. This contract and confident research of an intended husband’s character is most important since as husband and father, men determine a woman’s life - the contract must be met and failure to do so is grounds for divorce. Note the judicial system is inquisitorial like the French rather than our adversarial (UK) approach - judges are all seminary trained (not secular). It is civil law with a Sharia overlay.
Regarding dress, its all conservative - men wear long trousers and often long sleeve shirts with shoes much more common that sandals. For women the headscarf is required and a manteau (fashionable lab coat) to disguise their curves (lest men lose control). Some older women wore a chador but no burquas. Younger women were understandably more inclined to wear the scarf and manteau in more fashionable style and colour, with the scarf back on their heads to display some hair. Liberalising change is probably slowly coming with universities 60% occupied by women but society is controlled by the immams/mullahs, so there’s a fundamentalists may get back in control. Even so, society seems to want to build a bridge back to the west.